Croatia, 2nd: The Bradt Travel Guide

Piers Letcher
Globe Pequot Press (2005)
ISBN 1841621137
Reviewed by Olivera Baumgartner-Jackson for Reader Views (2/07)

Getting only a glimpse of the frontispiece on this charming guidebook one should be excused for thinking that its subject is a Caribbean country or one of those magical, far-away islands in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. The sandy beaches are snow-white and the water is vividly blue-green, a color that we are hard pressed to believe could truly exist in nature. Most readers will be really surprised that the cover photo actually comes from the island Cres in Croatia. Yes, Croatia is one of those relatively unknown, but exceptionally beautiful countries. It would be easy to write a clichéd, all-too-rosy book about it; yet Piers Letcher managed to do it justice without exaggerating or being too one-sided. As we learn in the Introduction, he has been visiting it for over 20 years and he evidently loves it greatly. He has also done a lot of research, which is clearly evident from the very useful General Information in Part I. This section covers all of the usual topics, from the background information to tons of practical, how-to information, even including some ideas on “how to give back” (voluntary work, charities…). The practical information section contains one of the best pieces of advice ever on how to handle the topics of the recent war in a possible conversation with the local people. “Even with a population that is now 90% Croat, as a foreigner you won’t always know immediately whether you are talking to a Croat or a Serb, and even if you are sure, opinions are sufficiently divergent to be dangerous. The only really safe thing you can say, if you are asked directly, is that you’re pleased it’s all over, and that peace should bring prosperity.” This is a tip to be remembered as it could come in handy in many similar situations just abut anywhere in the world.

The second part is The Guide, divided into seven chapters describing different regions of Croatia: Zagreb, Inland Croatia, Istria, Kvarner Bay and Islands, Northern Dalmatia, Central Dalmatia and Southern Dalmatia. Piers Letcher has a great way of mixing different elements – flora, fauna, history, humor -while describing an area, such as this inspired portrayal of the Plitvice Lakes, which happen to be one of my all-time favorites as well:

“Each of the lakes seems to be a different colour, ranging from turquoise to emerald through every blue and green you could imagine. In places the lakes seem as still and reflective as a cathedral, elsewhere they run away fast, frothing through steep gullies and shooting out from fissures in the rock. The magical noise of falling water drowns out even the shrillest of small children. On the less frequented paths it’s easy to imagine the bears and wolves, as you walk across a deeply shaded bed of leaves, crunching underfoot. […] It’s inadvisable, however, to be in the wilds after nightfall – the bears and the wolves avoid the main paths and the crowds, but they do patrol out at night. […] There have been no incidents in recent years involving tourists, but it was here, on April 16 1988 […] that a national park warden was killed by a bear. The bear was apparently confused by a storm, and anxious to protect its cub, when it was surprised by the unfortunate warden. Being a Serb, he could probably be counted as the first victim in the Serbo-Croat war, which actually took off here in Plitvice, when the Serbs took over the management offices in March 1991.”

Such vivid narratives coupled with plentiful and very detailed maps certainly make for an exceptionally useful guide book. I would highly recommend it to anybody who is lucky enough to head towards Croatia as well as to an armchair traveler ready to discover one of the better kept European secrets. For those of you who would like to understand Croatia even better, Piers Letcher put together an extraordinary list of additional reading material as well as a bunch of useful websites to visit. All of those can be found on over three pages at the very end of “Croatia, 2nd: The Bradt Travel Guide.”

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