Smokehouse Ham, Spoon Bread, & Scuppernong Wine: The Folklore and Art of Appalachian Cooking (10th Anniversary Edition)

Joseph E. Dabney
Cumberland House (2008)
ISBN 9781581826678
Reviewed by Irene Watson for Reader Views (9/08)

 

What a delightful book!  I’m not calling it a cookbook because it’s not “just a cookbook.”  It has a bit of memoir, history, folklore and tradition.  The photos of previous generations add to the uniqueness of this book.  The Smoky Mountains and Blue Ridge country of the Carolinas is the setting of the stories and recipes which range from passed down from the pioneers to the present cuisine.

At first when I skimmed the book to see what all was in store for me I remembered my first encounter with smokehouse ham in a small town in North Carolina.  I had no idea the laborious venture it is and came to appreciate the art itself.  Dabney gives history as well as information on how it is prepared.

I tried “Lettice’s Sweet Potato Puffs” because of the simplicity.  The cinnamon and nutmeg gave it a warm effect and the puffs were delicious. 

The “Appalachian Hominy Casserole” was good, with just the right amount of garlic as to not overpower the taste of hominy.  I’ve used hominy before but never by running it through a food chopper as this recipe suggests. The texture was different than I expected and I felt there was too much tomato for the amount of vegetables.  However, that said, the flavor was wonderful and served with a simple salad, we enjoyed it.

“Smokehouse Ham, Spoon Bread, & Scuppernong Wine” by Joseph E. Dabney is a superb book for those interested in the historical aspects of the South, as well as the taste of down-home cooking.  There are no frills or presentation concerns with any of the recipes.  I’ve often heard of people “reading” a cookbook.  Well, this is certainly one to read.

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